Our second surf day went quite a bit differently than our first. Kurt had a lesson to teach in the morning so the long boards were unavailable – long boards are more stable and easier to learn on.
But being eager to get back out there we took the next longest board, a nice 7′ 6″er. Which is a far cry from the 9′ 2″er we were learning on.
Despite this we strolled down to the beach, strapped on the leash and paddled out. Once we got into the water and into the waves we realized that the short board wasn’t going to be our only challenge. We didn’t have Kurt the magic wave reader there to tell us when to paddle and which waves were good to ride. After a few tries and misses I managed to get up, but for mere seconds before I nose-dived (exited the board) into the crashing waves. Pawel had a bit more luck, and admittedly a bit more patience. He managed to get up for three short rides, which was really quite impressive. The problem is that the short board is a lot more unstable, so the novice surfer will try too much to stabilize before the pop-up – ultimately spoiling your chance of standing. With the short board you really need to have the strength and technique down to be successful. And when we say short, we mean shorter, because short boards are more like 5′ – 6′.
Fortunately for us, when Kurt’s lesson ended he strolled up with the Polish Power board and offered a switch. He said he noticed us struggling and we’d have a better time with PP. After the pep talk we decided to leave the frustration on the beach and hit the water to have some fun. We both managed to catch some decent waves and were back to feeling good. The hardest part is analyzing the wave. Most times what we think is a good wave breaks too soon. It’s the unsuspecting ones that make for a good ride.
The walk home was a bit of an adventure, not only did we have to carry the board but had to Pawel do it barefoot. The sneaky tide came up and stole one of my sandals from the shore. So my gentleman boyfriend offered me his flip flop, because he’s a sweetheart but also because the missing sandal belonged to my injured foot. We took our time and made it back. Immediately we dove into the pool to cool off and toss around the football. Peter Borne you would have been proud!
Oh and on the way home from dinner we decided to take the short cut, avery steep dirt path, back to the apartment. We did this even though it had been raining all evening. This we were advised against the first day we arrived.